Ilam Hall.
J. & C. Mozley, Derby
The lithograph of Ilam Hall, rebuilt during the reign of King George IV,
was published in William Adam's "The Gem of the Peak" in 1857[1].
In earlier editions of the book it had been executed by G. Rowe of Cheltenham.
Adam also wrote the following:[1]
"From thence [the Isaac Walton Hotel] we proceeded to ILAM HALL,
the beautiful seat of Jesse Watts Russell, Esq., which is but a
short distance from the Inn.".
ILAM
"The new house, erected but a few years ago, is a castellated
structure, chiefly in the Elizabethan style. "This fine
mansion, and the lovely scenery around, seem in perfect unison
with each other, and when beheld from the road leading along
the side of Bunster hill," near the gate, the view is
peculiarly rich and beautiful. The grounds are kept in admirable
order, and the cottages which we passed are remarkable neat and
clean. The old ones are removed, and some in the Swiss style are
erected in their stead." ... [He had noted in the first edition,
published in 1838, that these were "heavy looking, being chiefly
built of black marble"[2].]
"THE HOUSE. - We do not remember at any time to have visited a mansion,
in which both the exterior and interior magnificence are in such happy
unison as at Ilam. But what rendered the charm to us still greater, was the
perfect feeling of domestic comfort which remained undisturbed by the
grandeur which surrounded it."
"It would be impossible, in the short space at our disposal, to
enter into a detail of the several objects which engaged our attention
whilst passing through the various elegant apartments, where nothing
appeared omitted that could possibly serve to complete the picture.
From the Entrance Hall and Armoury, finished off in oriental splendour,
there was"
" All that most to luxury invite."
"Although Ilam must not be considered as what is termed a "show
house", yet we have reason to believe that Mr. Russell has great
pleasure in allowing strangers to be conducted through it if they come
with a satisfactory introduction. There are some very fine pictures
in this house worth seeing."
The original Hall, then owned by Jesse Watts Russell, High Sheriff
of the County of Stafford, was demolished in 1820[3].
Adam was not resident in Derbyshire when Ilam Hall was rebuilt, but
Ebenezer Rhodes visited Ilam twice whilst the work was underway.
When he went to Ilam for the second time the newly built hall was
not quite complete. On his first visit, when the house was being built,
he described the architectural style as that which had "most
prevailed in the reign of Elizabeth"[4]. Although he did not say so,
some of its architectural features were similar to the likes of Wollaton
Hall and Hardwick.
"Ilam Hall, though not entirely finished, had a grand effect
even at a distance ; approaching nearer, the detail began to display itself,
and the general design and arrangement to be clearly understood. On a verdant
knoll, a little above the margin of the river Manyfold, that ran rippling and
sparkling through the meadows below, I stopped to gaze upon the new mansion
at Ilam, which is truly a noble structure, and a proof of the professional
skill and taste of the architect*. The principal part of the building, with its
large bay windows, octagonal projections, and richly ornamented parapets, is
in that peculiar style of architecture which was fashionable in the reign of
Elizabeth; but there are portions of this structure that nearly assimilate with
the gothic, both in character and ornament, and these are decidedly the finest
and most imposing parts. The whole appears to be admirably contrived, both for
picturesque effect and convenience ; but the most beautiful feature in this
noble mansion is the circular gothic lantern by which it is surrounded. It is
not a paltry thing, made merely for the purpose of admitting light ; its
dimensions are ample, and perfectly in proportion with the capacious base on
which it rests. The circle of which it is composed presents to the eye a
series of pointed arches, resting on appropriate shafts : these, in
connexion with each other, describe a circle, and constitute the framework
of the lantern. Where light is wanted in the central part of a building,
the dome is sometimes so constructed as to be a noble ornament ; but the
lantern at Ilam is a more noble contrivance, and one of the most tasteful
and elegant architectural ornaments that ever adorned a building. The place
altogether does infinite credit to the taste and liberal spirit of the
proprietor, who will make this romantic spot - this beauteous gem in British
scenery - not less attractive than its neighbouring Dovedale. I have mentioned
a part only of what is already accomplished at Ilam: a museum, a splendid
conservatory, and a picture gallery are intended to be added.
*[Footnote] John Shaw, Esq., of Bedford Square, London."[4]
Some forty years later Timothy Spencer Hall was another person who admired Ilam.
".. the Hall, the seat of Mr. Watts Russsell, which rises nearby [the church],
is one of the most beautiful and tasteful modern structures of its class in England,
and the architectural style of most of the village has been made in accord with it.[5]"
Jesse Watts Russell passed away at the Hall on Good Friday 1875 aged 88. An
obituary described him as a well-known and highly-respected gentleman[6].
His picture collection was sold shortly afterwards[7]
and his library went under the hammer at Sotheby's early the following year.[8]
Mr. Robert William Hanbury, M.P. for Tamworth, became the new owner[9].
He died in 1903[10] and, according
to Thomas Tudor, Ilam Hall was still in the family in 1926 although was partially
closed[11].
William Twigg of Matlock bought the hall, grounds and fishing rights for
£1,600 in 1933, intending to either sell it on or demolish it if it
did not sell[12]. By 1935 it was in
the hands of the Youth Hostel Association. They were unable to utilise the
whole building, so demolished the main part of the hall. They converted the
kitchens and servants' quarters; the portico of the main building was also to
remain[13]. In 1940 the Burton
paper declared it had since become what was said to In the largest youth
hostel in England[14].
Also see, elsewhere on this web site:
"The
Panorama of Matlock", pp20-30. Scroll down to
the section on Dovedale.
The
Gentleman's Magazine Library - The Peak, see p.48 when "S. R."
visited Ilam Hall, then the home of the Porte family.
Joseph Francis Donegani worked for Robert
Hanbury before moving to Matlock Bath, read his
biography and see the Donegani family photograph.
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References:
[1] Adam, W. (1857, 6th edtn.) "The Gem
of the Peak; or Matlock Bath and Its Vicinity. ..." John and
Charles Mozley, Derby, and 6, Paternoster Row, London;
Bemrose and Sons, W. and W. Pike, and Wilkins and Sons Derby,
Bemrose and Sons, Matlock Bath ; ......
[2] Adam, W. (1838) "The Gem
of the Peak; or Matlock Bath and Its Vicinity. ..." London;
Longman & Co., Paternoster Row ; ... Mawe, Royal Museum,
Matlock ; .....
[3] "Derby Mercury", 22
November 1820. An advertisement announced the "Sale of
household furniture, plate glass windows, Mahogany and other
doors, Marble Chimney pieces, and other effects".
[4] Rhodes, Ebenezer (1824) "Peak
Scenery" pub. London, Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme,
Brown, and Green, Paternoster Row.
[5] Hall, Spencer Timothy (1863) "Days
in Derbyshire", Simpkin, Marshall and Co, Stationers'
Hall Court, London, and printed by Richard Keene, All Saints, Derby.
[6] "Derby Mercury", 7 April 1875.
[7] "Morning Post" 5
July 1875. Sale of pictures, porcelain and tapestry by Messrs.
Christie, Manson and Woods.
[8] "London Evening
Standard" 26 January 1876.
[9] "Derby Mercury"
25 August 1875.
[10] "Yorkshire Evening Post",
29 April 1903.
[11] Tudor, Thomas Linthwaite (1926) "The
High Peak to Sherwood, The hills and dales of old Mercia",
pub. London by Robert Scott.
[12] "Derby Daily Telegraph",
21 September 1933. Matlock Engineer's Bid. The article stated that the previous
owner was a Mr.E. C. S. Backhouse.
[13] "Burton Observer and Chronicle",
13 June 1935.
[14] "Burton Observer and Chronicle",
25 January 1940.
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