The
Gentleman's Magazine Library, 1731-1868 |
English Topography Part III Derbyshire - Dorsetshire |
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Derbyshire |
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[Page 43] |
Markeaton.
[1805, Part I., p. 217]
I send you (Plate II.) a view of Markeaton Church, in Derbyshire,
for a brief description of which your readers are referred
to a letter of mine in Vol. LXII., p.306.
Yours, etc., J.P.M
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Matlock.
[1793, Part I, pp. 505, 506.],
The rough and rugged scenes at and near Matlock have afforded
such scope to the powers of poetry, painting and description,
that I presume such of your readers as have not been there
may think very little more can be said on the subject. However,
pray indulge me with a page in attempting to describe the road
from Chesterfield to Wirksworth. On a sultry day in August
last I left Chesterfield, and for some distance was amused
in passing along a pleasant road, which at length began to
rise and fall over hill and valley in a manner not altogether
agreeable. Besides, the vegetation diminished, the trees were
less, the luxuriant verdure of the level gave place to brown
heath and ragged stones, but, as I had not been to Matlock
by this road before, I felt consoled in the hope of soon reaching
the commencement of those scenes at once the haunts of business,
pleasure and health. But as we are taught that to reach any
point of felicity many dangers and fatigues must be encountered,
so, in the approach to Matlock, a gloomy variety presents itself.
From the tops of the rude, misshapen masses, some of which
are of great height, a great extent of country spreads before
you, studded with Hardwicke, Bolsover, Chesterfield, Wingerworth,
etc. While I remained on the summit the air was sweet and refreshing
; I experienced the reviving scents accumulated from myriads
of plants. The valleys afford nothing but dust and a most intolerable
concentrated heat. The stone walls, too, break the little circulation
of air that would otherwise prevail. So desolate is this part
of Derbyshire, that for some miles I saw but two or three habitations.
What, indeed, but extreme wretchedness could induce a person
to live exposed to the keen northern blasts that whirl round
those bleak rocks After descending an almost endless hill,
the road makes an elbow, leaving Ashover Church to the left,
which peeps beautifully among a group of trees; and here, for
a mile or two, Nature gives a rough sketch of what she intends
at Matlock. The right side of the road (which now ascends)
is moderately level, scattered with cottages and trees; the
left, a bold rock adorned with many trees; now the road this
rock closing forms a dark passage, composed of houses, trees
and rocks, cool and refreshing after a barren ride of upwards
of eight miles. Here again the traveller seems to leave the
cheerful society of man ; he plunges at once into a desert
- not a tree or a bush to relieve the black waving horizon.
To make the scene still more gloomy, the clouds grew dark,
the sun assumed a fiery red, and, as I rode, dismal tolling
of a large bell saluted my ears. Not a mortal near me, the
evening approaching; but that I was certain Matlock was not
more than two miles before me, I should have been tempted to
return, were it only for the comfort of again seeing a living
creature |
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Besides my horse. As the ground I was on was
much higher than any of the hills at Matlock, I was at once surprised
and delighted with a grand and awful scene that expanded below
me ; all the rich profusion of wild Nature thrown together in an
assemblage of objects the most sublime. To heighten the view, the
Torr and rocks near it were covered with crowds of people. Never
did man appear to me before in so humiliating a state; contrasted
with the vast piles of rock and mountain, he seemed diminished
to a spec, an atom. My curiosity was raised to account for this,
I nearly said, phenomenon : crowds on the summits of places almost
inaccessible, never visited but by an adventurous traveller or
unlucky boy. Sometimes, indeed, a straggling cow will advance to
the verge of the rocks and snuff the air; once I observed one with
its fore-feet so near the edge of the Torr that its neck and breast
were visible from the road beneath. After viewing with delight
this assemblage of Nature's works I began to descend. The way was
now lined with houses, and at each step it was amusing to observe
Matlock hills rising into consequence till, reaching the bridge,
they disappear ; when turning you view the road you have passed
winding up an uncultivated rugged hill, intersected by stone walls.
The bridge is plain, strong and in good repair. Much cannot be
said of the town : the houses are comfortable, but much scattered;
the church is plain, except the tower, which is rather handsome.
Its situation is fine, on top of a considerable precipice; many
trees grow on the abrupt adge and at the bottom. Upon passing the
river, you enter valley in which it glides; each step adds to the
beauty of the scene. The road winds close on the river, sometimes
hid by a group of trees. The boathouse, placed under a rock and
overgrown with foliage, must not pass unnoticed, on viewing the
vast and extended wall which towers tremendous before you, unshaken
by time, though not impervious to persevering man; for many of
the chasms in this pile afford passages to mines, some worked,
some neglected. To the right, as you proceed, the hill rises to
a great height, nearly uninterrupted by rocks, while the opposite
side makes an acute angle, near which is the High Torr. This rock
is of an amazing height, and nearly perpendicular; it is pointed
at top. For a very great depth this rock is quite bare, and much
smoother than any round it; the descent then becomes less abrupt.
At the foot a mine is worked, which penetrates a great distance;
a shaft meets it from the surface, back to the Torr. The road was
now nearly impassable from the crowds of people and carriages ;
for Sir Richard Arkwright's funeral passed the Torr for Matlock
Church, where he is to lie till a chapel now erecting, and begun
by him, shall be finished. I no longer wondered at people on the
rocks; a better opportunity of judging the population of this place
could not have offered, and it is surprisingly great. The ceremony
was conducted with much pomp, and, |
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as nearly as I can remember, was thus: A coach
and four with the clergy; another with the pall-bearers; the hearse,
covered with escutcheons, surrounded by mutes, followed ; then
the horse of the deceased, led by a servant; the relations, and
about fifteen or twenty carriages, closed the procession, which
was perhaps half a mile in length.
The evening was gloomy, and the solemn stillness that reigned
was only interrupted by the rumbling of the carriages and the
gentle murmurs of the river; and as they passed, the echo of
the Torr gently returned the sound. The whole was so rich and
uncommon that I continued to gaze till a turn in the road closed
the whole
..
Such a variety is there at this place that a particular description
is next to impossible. Imagine yourself on the hill, the river
beneath, numberless trees in all the various forms that an obstructing
rock or a want of support can occasion, a white rock towering above
you; the road, now leading to Cromford, makes a sudden turn close
to it; a cotton-mill, with a neat little turret, surrounded by
trees, the massy wheel turning slowly, the water foaming from it
; at some distance, Sir R. A. Arkwright's house, like a vast castle,
with its keep, etc., all embattled; farther, his mills, Cromford
Bridge, and the new chapel; behind, a chain of hills, partly covered
with wood, opposite the house a huge rock, fantastically adorned
with shrubs and trees; through this rock the road is carried with
much labour. Such is the scene on leaving Matlock. Proceeding,
a long rough hill, lined by new stone houses, makes the traveller
regret what he has left. Much to Sir Richard's credit, those habitations
are most comfortable. And, if one may judge of prosperity by the
insolence met with on this hill (from those who had been to gape
at the funeral), surely Cromford is a happy place; but let it be
understood, that I believe the holiday had produced this redundancy
of wit. After an unpleasant ride over rough ways, which still are
compensated by the rich views of Matlock and Sir Richard Arkwright's
house, I arrived at Hopton, the hospitable mansion of Mr. Gell,
much pleased with is my route. ...
J. P. MALCOLM
[1795, Part II, p. 657.]
Permit me to present to your readers a view of that stupendous
rock, the Torr at Matlock (Plate III., Fig. 3). ...J. P. M.
(1793, Part II., p. 885.]
Having seen in your entertaining miscellany some picturesque views
in Derbyshire by your ingenious correspondent J. P. Malcolm,
I imagine the enclosed drawing of some very singular rocks near
Matlock Bath (see Plate II.) may be acceptable to many of your
readers. |
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The traveller who wishes to explore this curious
country must quit the trodden path, climb the cragged cliff, and
penetrate the dark recess. he will there find ample recompense
for his trouble.
The rocks here represented are upon the brow of the hill, directly
behind Mason's Bath, but the ground is enclosed with stone walls,
which, together with the bushes and brambles that surround the
rocks, make the approach rather difficult.
This curious group of rocks evidently appears to have been separated
by some violent convulsion in nature, which has also formed several
chasms: the projection of the little rock over the great one is
very remarkable. From this spot you command a very extensive and
pleasing view, I think preferable to any in the neighbourhood of
Matlock.
It may be thought extraordinary that no path has been made from
the Hall-house to this romantic spot; but, to take off this appearance
of neglect in Mr. Mason, who is as attentive to the amusement as
he to the accommodation of his numerous guests, it is necessary
to say that the ground behind the house is not his property.
Yours, etc., H. ROOKE
Measham.
[1792, Part I., p. 409.]
Measham is situated on the southernmost edge of Derbyshire, 3
miles from Ashby-de-la-Zouch, on the road to Tamworth. It is
now, through the exertions of Joseph Wilkes, Esq., a populous
village, and the buildings are much improved. It has a market-house,
though there is not a regular market; and Mr. Wilkes has built
a corn-mill, which is worked to great effect by steam-engines.
"The church (see Plate III.), which formerly belonged to
the priory at Greseley, has a modern tower rebuilt upon an ancient
body. The living is a donative curacy. Joseph Wilkes, Esq., is
patron, who purchased this estate of a Mr. Wollaston. The present
minister is the Rev. Thomas Mould, one of the masters of Appleby
School, who also holds the curacy of Gresley. —Abney, Esq., has
likewise considerable property here, and has built a good house
at a small distance from the village called Measham Field, where
he resides."
—See "Topographer," vol. i., p. 521.
S. S.
Norton.
[1818, Part I., p. 497.]
The parish of Norton, in the hundred of Scarsdale, and deanery
of Chesterfield, is situate 8 miles from Chesterfield, and
4 from Sheffield. It takes its name apparently, according to
Dr. Pegge, from its being in the most northern part of Derbyshire.
The church (of which a drawing by the late Mr. Grimm accom- |
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panies this, see Plate II.) is dedicated to St.
James. It was given to the Abbey of Beauchief by its founder, Robert
Fitz Ralph and was appropriated to that monastery, which was distant
about 2 miles from Norton. The present impropriator of the great
tithes is Samuel Shore, Esq. The present incumbent, Henry Pearson,
L.L.B., is also patron of the vicarage, which is a discharged living,
and is rated in the King's Books at £45 3s. 6d. With the
aid of several benefactions, the endowment is now about £150
a year.
In the church is the monument (without inscription) of the father
and mother of John Blythe, Bishop of Salisbury, and Geffrey Blythe,
Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry (who appear to have been natives
of Norton), and the tomb of their elder brother Richard. There
are also monuments to the families of Eyre of Bradway, Bullock,
Morewood, Gill, Clarke, and Bagshaw. The number of houses in
Norton in 1811 was 300, of families 305, consisting of 1,446
males and 1,527 females.
A satisfactory description of the parish may be seen in Messrs.
Lyson's " Topographical Account of Derbyshire," recently
published.
Yours, etc., N. R. S
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