'The unparalleled grandeur of the scenery round Matlock, renders every
attempt to delineate its varied characteristics by words, at least,
hopeless, if not absolutely impossible. The bold and romantic steeps,
skirted by a gorgeous covering of wood, and rising from the margin
of the Derwent, whose waters sometimes glide majestically along, and
sometimes flow in a rapid stream over ledges and broken masses of
stone; the frequent changes of scene, occasioned by the winding of
the Dale, which at every step varies the prospect, by introducing
new objects; the huge rocks, in some places bare of vegetation, in
others covered with luxuriant foliage, here, piled upon each other
in immense masses, there, displaying their enormous fronts in one
unbroken perpendicular mass; and the sublimity, and picturesque beauty,
exhibited by the manifold combinations of the interesting forms congregated
near this enchanting spot, can never be adequately depicted by the
powers of language. The creations of the pencil, alone, are commensurate
to the excitation in the mind, of correspondent images.
The general name, Matlock, it must be observed, includes both the
village of Matlock, and Matlock Bath. The former is as ancient as
the Conquest, and is chiefly situated on the eastern banks of the
river; the latter is considerably more recent in its origin, and stands
on the western margin. "At the time of compiling the Domesday
Book, Matlock appears to have been a hamlet of the manor of Mestesford,
(the situation of which is now unknown) which was part of the demesnes
of the Crown. It afterwards became a part of the estate of William
de FERRERS, Earl of Derby, who had a charter of free-warren for his
demesne lands here. On the attainder of his son, Robert de FERRERS,
for espousing the cause of Simon de MONTFORD, Earl of Leicester, Matlock
then became a manor, reverted to the Crown; and was granted, in the
seventh of Edward the First [1278/9], to Edmund, Earl of Lancaster,
and continued a part of the possessions of the earldom and Duchy of
Lancaster, till the fourth of Charles the First [1628/9], when
it was granted by that King, along with a great number of other manors
and estates, to Edward DITCHFIELD and others, in trust for the Mayor
and citizens of London. In the year following, it was sold by DITCHFIELD,
and the other trustees, to the copyholders of the manor of Matlock,
and is now divided into several small shares".[1] According to the returns made under the late Act, this parish contains
492 houses, and 2,354 inhabitants.
Matlock village is inhabited chiefly by persons employed in the neighbouring
lead mines, and in the manufacture of cotton. The houses are principally
of stone; and at the entrance of the village is a neat stone bridge;
at some distance from which, on the verge of a most romantic rock,
stands the church. This structure contains a nave, side aisles, and
a small chancel : the outside is embattled, having an ancient tower
with pinnacles, whimsically decorated with figures of grotesque animals
for spouts. On the eminence above the church, called Riber Hill, are
the remains of what has been supposed a Druidical altar, but which
has more resemblance to a cromlech; though it may probably have only
been intended as a point for the transmittal of signals. it is called
the Hirst Stones, and consists of four rude masses of grit-stone,
on of which, apparently the smallest, is placed on the others, and
is computed to weigh about two tons. On the upper stone is a circular
hole, six inches deep, and nine in diameter, wherein, about fifty
years ago, stood a stone pillar.
Matlock-Bath is nearly a mile and a half from the village; and though
few situations can be more beautiful, it was only occupied by some
rude cottages, inhabited by miners, till its warm springs began to
attract notice, for their medicinal qualities, about the year 1698.
At this period the original bath - "was built and paved by the
Rev Mr FERN, of Matlock, and Mr HEYWARD, of Cromford; and put into
the hands of George WRAGG, who, to confirm his title, took a lease
from the several lords of the manor, for ninety-nine years[2] paying them a fine of 150 pounds and the yearly rent or acknowledgement
of sixpence each. He then built a few small rooms adjoining to the
bath, which were but a poor accommodation for strangers. The lease
and property of Mr WRAGG were afterwards purchased for about 1,000
pounds by Messrs SMITH and PENNEL, of Nottingham, who erected two
large commodious buildings, with stables, and other conveniences;
made a coach road along the river side from Cromford, and improved
the horse-way from Matlock Bridge. The whole estate afterwards became
the property of Mr PENNEL by purchase; and on his death, about the
year 1733, descended to his daughter, and her husband."[3]
It is now [1802] the joint property of several persons.
The judicious means thus exerted to render the accommodations attractive,
and the increasing celebrity of the waters, occasioned a greater influx
of visitors; and a second spring having been discovered within the
distance of about a quarter of a mile, a new bath was formed, and
another lodging-house erected, for the reception of company. At a
still later period, a third spring was met with, three or four hundred
yards eastward of that which was first noticed; but its temperature
being several degrees lower than either of the other springs, it was
not brought into use till a level had been made in the hill and carried
beyond the point where its waters had intermingled with those of a
cold spring. Another bath and lodging-house were then erected; and
the latter, by various subsequent alterations, is become one of the
most commodious hotels in England. These buildings are of stone, and
are respectively named, the 'Old Bath', the 'New Bath', and the 'Hotel'.**
The number of persons that may at the same time be accommodated at
these, and the private lodging-houses, is upwards of 400; and since
the taste for contemplating beautiful scenery has been so general,
more than this number have been frequently entertained.
** Note: The general terms for accommodation at these houses, are
as follows. A bed-chamber is five shillings per week; a private parlour
from fourteen shillings to a guinea. Breakfast, one shilling and threepence;
dinner at the public table, two shillings; tea, optional, but when
taken, one shilling; supper, one shilling and sixpence. Bathing, sixpence
each time.
All the warm springs issue from between fifteen and thirty yards above
the level of the river : higher or lower, the springs are cold, and
only common water. The temperature of the former, as given by Dr PEARSON
and others, is 68 degrees of Farenheit's thermometer; but Dr ELLIOT,
and Dr PENNINGTON, have stated it at 69 degrees. Dr PERCIVAL observes,
in his "Medical and Experimental Essays" that the
Matlock waters resemble those of Bristol, both in their chemical and
medical qualities; but that the Matlock water exhibits no proof of
a mineral spirit, either by the taste, or the test of syrup of violets.
The Doctor adds, "that it is very slightly impregnated with selenite,
or earthy salts, which is proved by its comparative levity, it weighing
only 'four' grains in a pint heavier than distilled water : and that
a grey precipitate, occasioned by adding a solution of silver in 'aqua-fortis',
renders it probable that a small portion of sea salt is contained
in it." In Dr PENNINGTON's experiments it was found that alkalies
made the water cloudy and milky : and that when a gallon was evaporated,
thirty-seven or thirty-eight grains of sediment were deposited; of
this about twelve or thirteen were saline matter, composed of calcareous
nitre, (vitriolated magnesia) and twenty-four or twenty-five grains,
calcareous earth.[4]
The diseases in which the beneficial tendency of the Matlock waters
is chiefly experienced, are glandular affections, rheumatism, and
its consequent debility, obstructions from biliary concretions, gravel,
consumption in its first stages, Haemoptoe, and generally, all those
complaints that are promoted or increased by a relaxed state of the
muscular fibres. The Matlock season commences the latter end of April,
and continues till November.
The romantic and sublimely picturesque scenery of Matlock Dale, is
viewed to most advantage when approached from the bridge near its
northern extremity; as its beauties then succeed each other in a gradation
which renders their grandeur and effect more impressive. The attention
is first arrested by a vast rampart of limestone rock, clothed with
yew trees, elms, and limes, of singularly beautiful shapes and foliage,
from the recesses of which the humble church of Matlock displays its
pinnacles. Further on the views become more interesting; and the High
Tor, rearing its awful brow on the left bank of the river, bursts
upon the sight in extreme magnificence. The height of this stupendous
rock is upwards of 350 feet. The lower part is covered with small
trees and under-wood, of various foliage; but the upper part, for
fifty or sixty yards, is one broad mass of naked perpendicular rock.
The fragments that have fallen from this eminence form the bed of
the river, which flows immediately below; a bed so broken and disjointed,
that the foaming waters roar over the obstructing masses with restless
rapidity, and considerable noise. After sudden and heavy rains, the
impetuosity of the current is greatly increased, and the sublimity
of the view proportionably augmented.
Immediately opposite to the High Tor, but rising with a less steep
ascent, though to a greater elevation, is Masson Hill, which appears
like a pile of immense crags - a Pelion upon Ossa. The summit of this
mountain has been named the Heights of Abraham (probably from its
similarity to the Heights of Abraham near Quebec, rendered so memorable
by the enterprise of the gallant WOLFE, in 1759), and overlooks the
country to a vast extent; besides commanding a beautiful bird's-eye
view of nearly the whole Dale. From this point even the High Tor loses
its sublimity; but this effect is fully compensated by the variety
of interesting objects included in the prospect. The height of this
eminence is about 250 yards; the path to its summit has been carried
in a winding, or rather zigzag direction, and in various places on
each side has been planted with rows of firs, which, opening at convenient
distances, admits the eye to range over the beautiful scenery beneath,
from different points of view.
The romantic cliff which forms the eastern boundary of the Dale, is
seen to much advantage from the Old Bath, where the river recedes
in a curve from the road, and a little strip of meadow, rendered picturesque
by three small buildings in the cottage style, compose the foreground.
"This is finely opposed and backed by a line of rock and wood,
a mass of trees rising to the right, and shutting out for a short
time all other features of the scenery." On crossing the river
near this spot, it may be observed, that the natural beauties of the
place have received some improvements from art. Three paths are seen,
pointing through the wood in different directions : one of them called
the Lover's Walk, has been carried along the margin of the river,
and is arched by the intermingled branches of the trees which inclose
it. The others pursue a winding course to the summit of the rock,
which is attained with little difficulty, through the judicious mode
observed in forming the slopes, and placing the steps; though the
acclivity is exceedingly steep. Variety of luxuriant trees interweave
their fantastic roots on each side of the paths, and shelter them
with their aspiring branches. The prospects from the brow of the precipice
are very fine.
From the Baths, to the southern entrance of the Dale, near Cromford,
the features of the scenery are continually varying. The river sometimes
flows in a smooth and gentle stream, reflecting the pendant boughs
that weave upon its margin; and sometimes rushes over a ledge of rocks,
or the rude fragments that have been torn by storms from the impending
cliffs which overhang its waters. some of these are entirely bare;
but others are partially covered with shrubs and under-wood, which
take root in the crevices of the rocks, and flourish in considerable
vigour, though apparently bereaved of every means of obtaining nourishment.
The western bank of the Derwent, for the whole distance between the
turnpike at Matlock and the Old Baths, is one vast bed of 'tuphus',
or calcareous incrustation, which has been deposited by the waters
flowing from the warm springs. This is vulgarly called petrified moss,
and appears to have been formed on a morass[5],
or collection of moss, shrubs, and small trees, which having incrusted,
the vegetable matter gradually decomposed, and the stony envelopment
assumed the entire figure of the nucleus it had destroyed. The Petrifying
Spring, near the New Bath, has furnished innumerable specimens of
these kind of transmutations of vegetable, animal, and testaceous
substances, that have been exposed to its influence. The collection
displayed by the person who keeps the spring, contains several extraordinary
exemplars of its powers of action.
In the hill on the west side of the river are two subterranean cavities
: one of these, called the Cumberland Cavern, is said to have formerly
communicated with the entrance of a lead mine, but displays nothing
particularly remarkable : the other is more worthy of inspection,
and has been named the SMEDLEY Cavern, from the name of the discoverer,
who acts as guide to its recesses, and by those exertions, continued
for more than seventeen years, the numerous projections of the rock
which impeded the passage were removed. The entrance is near the top
of the hill, and keeps tolerably level for about twenty yards, when
the way begins to descend, winding irregularly amidst rude and disjointed
crags. After thus dipping for some distance, it leads forward chiefly
by a gentle ascent, for several hundred yards, through several vaults,
or hollows, the largest of which is about fifty feet long, and twenty
wide; having a concave roof, gradually sloping to the extremity of
the cavern. The bottom consists of immense masses of broken rock,
lying confusedly upon each other, and forming a rugged ceiling to
another vault below; into which is a descent by a natural flight of
rude steps.
Among the natural curiosities of Matlock, may be mentioned Lunar Rainbows,
which are not unfrequent in this neighbourhood. The colours are sometimes
exceedingly well defined, but have a more tranquil tone than those
which originate in the solar beams. A very beautiful one was observed
on the evening of tenth of September, 1802, between the hours of eight
and nine; its effect was singularly pleasing.'
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MATLOCK, MATLOCK BATH AND MATLOCK DALE
Matlock Miscellany
Arkwright's Cotton Mill