To THE HIRST STONES, CAWDOR TORS, VILLAGE OF MATLOCK, RIBER HILL,
CASCADE, AND CROMFORD BRIDGE.
A SHORT but very pleasant ride may be taken from Matlock
Bath to the village of Matlock, returning over the hills by Cromford
Bridge, and by Scarthin Nick, in a circuit of about five miles.
This rout leads over Matlock Bridge, which is a short distance
beyond the church rocks: before passing over the bridge, the
pedestrian will be gratified by taking a short walk on a path
by the river, where he will presently come to some agreeable
rock scenery, called Cawdor Tors, that form a good subject for
a sketch : the river comes in very interestingly ; it breaks
over a multiplicity of stones, above which its unruffled surface
receives the reflection of the surrounding objects. From a broken
foreground arise the rocks, which are agreeably cloathed with
trees. Verdant meadows extend a considerable depth into the scene,
and are hemmed in by lofty hills.
The church, from its very picturesque situation upon a rock,
will be much admired by those who delight in sketching from nature;
and those who
do not draw, cannot otherwise than regard it as a very pleasing
object in the accompanying scenery, with which it combines well
from several points of view.
There are scenes that are interesting to the eye, yet are so
little adapted to pictorial representation, as to create no interest
in a sketch: on the other hand, whatever is pleasing in a sketch,
however simple the subject, will be found to preserve the same
interest in nature.
Matlock appears by Doomsday Book to have have been a hamlet of
the manor of Metesforde,* which belonged to the crown. It was
afterwards possessed by William de Ferrars, Earl of Derby; but
on the attainder of his son Robert, for espousing the cause of
the Earl of Leicester, it reverted to the crown, and Matlock
then became a manor, which was granted to Edmund of Lancaster,
by Edward the First. It continued a part of the Earldom and Duchy
of Lancaster, until Charles the First granted it to trustees
for the mayor and citizens of London, who, the year following,
sold it to the copyholders of the manor of Matlock, and it now
remains divided into several small shares.
The church, which is dedicated to St.Giles, has a nave, with
side aisles, and a small tower at the west end, with crocketted
pinnacles. The
[footnote at the bottom of page 58]
*The situation is now unknown.
living is a rectory, and the dean of Lincoln the patron.
The eminence that rises to a great height above the village, is
called Riber Hill: on its summit are some singular stones, that
are supposed by antiquaries to have been a Druidical altar, or
a Cromlech. They are called the Hirst Stones, but do not now appear
to be known by that or any other name, as I made several enquiries
for them, but without effect. I therefore determined to ascend
the hill to search for this piece of antiquity, and struck into
a path by the side of a publick house; the sign was some great
man on horseback, but whom, I forget. The hill is very high, and
very steep; but the views kept improving in grandeur as I walked
up, which amply repaid me for every exertion to gain the summit,
from whence the view surpasses every thing of the kind I ever beheld.
The village of Matlock and the bridge are just underneath our feet,
and the Derwent is seen meandering through rich meadows that extend
far up the beautiful Darley Dale. Darley bridge, the church, and
the village, enliven the middle distance, and are backed by the
bold declivities of Stanton Moor, beyond which the high peak hills
melt into æther. Nearer at hand, the cultivated
eminences, dappled with cottages and trees, rise in fine sweeps,
and a stony foreground finishes the picture. The glowing effect
of a declining sun in this view beggars description.
"Day's radiant King, 'mid all refulgent glow.
Now sinks on Eve's enamoured bosom slow ;
Enthron'd in clouds majestic round him roll'd ;
While all the landscape melts in fluid gold :
Save where the purple shades, a misty train,
Steal in transparence o'er the mellow'd plain ;
Steal o'er retiring fields, o'er dark'ning woods,
O'er shadowy mountains, and o'er blushing floods.
A thin pellucid veil, while saffron spreads ;
And cloath'd in tints harmonious day recedes.
__________________ Yon stream that winds in haze.
Yon soft'ning distance catch the ethereal blaze ;
In vain shall imitative Art e'er dare
To snatch those glories of resplendent air."
BIDLAKE.
Now here is the object of my search on the very summit of
the hill; this altar or cromlech consists of a large stone placed
upon three others, on the top of the upper one there is a hole
which it is said was the shaft of a column. I cannot think that
the three lower stones have been placed there by art; they appear
to me to be parts of the solid rock of the mountain which is gritstone;
and that the only work of art has been placing the upper stone.*
After amusing myself with surveying the different views from this
elevated station, and making a sketch, I began to descend ; when
turning my eye to the right across the valley, I discovered a cascade
pouring its sil-
[footnote at the bottom of page 60]
* A clump of trees will be seen from below on the top of Riber ; the
Hirst Stones are very near to them.
very waters down the rocks of a glen, is a region where dusky sterility
seems to hold all everlasting reign; not a tree, nor a patch of green
is seen, to cheer the gloom of the savage waste, yet several dwellings
are there. Curiosity induced me to visit this place, merely to ascertain
the motive human beings could have for fixing their abode on such
a forbidding spot: I found that great ruler of the actions of man,
interest, had prompted them to reside here; it cheers the gloom by
dispensing that part of happiness we may term worldly : the stream
being admirably calculated for turning over-shot wheels, several bleaching
mills are established upon it. The cascade makes a tolerable good
sketch; the rocks that it runs over are extremely rugged, and of a
brown grits tone ; but the want of verdure and trees renders the colouring
monotonous.
The turnpike road to Cromford passes on the back of the High Tor.
Near to a group of picturesque cottages is an interesting peep
of Matlock Bath, between the termination of those cliffs that are
opposite to the baths, and the commencement of those denominated
the High Tor. Afterwards, the eminences Burrey Edge and Stonnis,
upon Cromford Moor, become the most conspicuous objects, until
we reach Cromford bridge; the architecture of the sides is totally
different. On the eastern side the arches are pointed, on the western
they are circular : this arises from widening
the bridge, by adding one of circular arches close to that with
pointed ones.
Two artists happening to sketch different sides of this bridge,
without observing the opposite one, a dispute arose between them
respecting the form of the arches, the one insisting upon them
being circular, the other as positively affirming they were pointed:
whereupon each produced his sketch, to support his assertion,
when each more pertinaciously insisted upon being right. This
is a lesson that might teach disputing mortals not to be vehemently
confident, lest like these artists, whilst both might be right,
so likewise both might be wrong. A remarkable circumstance occured
at this bridge a few years ago: a boy being upon a spirited
horse, the animal becoming restive, leaped over the wall into
the river, and although the height is considerable, yet providentially
neither the buy nor the horse received any injury .The boy was
playing at marbles in the village a few hours after the accident,
so that it would seem fright had not even operated much upon
his nerves.
EXCURSION [p.63
and a small part of p.64, included only for description of the
Bank and Moor]
TO STAINEDGE, SLACK, KELTSEDGE, ASHOVER, EASTWOOD HALL, OVERTON HALL,
TURNING STONE, ROBIN HOOD'S MARK, AND GREGORY MINE.
THIS excursion will make a pleasant ride of about fifteen
miles. The road leads by Matlock bridge, and turns a little way
towards the village, then suddenly to the left, leading up Matlock
bank, by a number of very picturesque cottages. The road is steep,
and a bubbling stream hurries along by the side of it, the views
from this road are very interesting; the village and church of Matlock,
surrounded by lofty mountains, are peculiarly so; and we here readily
form a good idea of the comparative heights of the most considerable
eminences. Masson maintains a decided superiority of elevation;
Burrey Edge, on Cromford Moor, the next; and then Riber Cliff-house,
which, in the valley, seemed to occupy the summit of the hill upon
which it stands, from here is seen to be very far below it. This
deception arises from the point of sight being too near to the mountain,
which prevents the summit from being seen. We next come to a dreary
waste called the High Moor; one part of it, to the right
of the road, appears to be so very ungenial to vegetation, as to
induce a belief it would be beyond human art to reduce it to a
state of cultivation. However, on the lower parts, the goods effects
of a bill of enclosure, are apparent. Human ingenuity has accomplished
much. We may therefore even here
"----- Behold a smiling change of scene,
Where earth-born russet turns to lively green ;
Rich pastures rise where deserts spread before ,
And barren wastes recruit the less'ning store."
The road rises until we have a sudden view of a well cultivated
valley, which forms a striking contrast to the moor we have just
passed.
[No more of the book has been transcibed]
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