Guides Index> Bemroses' Guide, Index> This page
Bemroses' Guide to Matlock, 1869*
Eighteenth and nineteenth century tour guides about Matlock Bath and Matlock
 
The Walk to Willersley

The Bridge at Matlock, Bemrose
Bemroses' Guide
Matlock's Scenery
Caverns, Rocks, Museums, Church
Bath to Dale
Walk to Willersley
Black Rocks
to Parish Church
High Tor & Antiquities
Matlock Bank & Riber
Walks & Places of Interest
Mr. Smedley's Hydropathic Establishment
Walker's Museum
Matlock House & Rockside
Royal Cumberland Cavern
Clark Greaves
Radfirth & Stevenson
Midland Railway 01
Midland Railway 02
Further Information
About Matlock
About Matlock Bath
Find a Name

pp.23-27 THE WALK TO WILLERSLEY.

The road from Matlock-Bath to Cromford lies in a southern direction, passing by Lady Glenorchy's Chapel for Presbyterian worship, between the course of the river on the left hand, and a picturesque range of hills on the right, till it reaches a grand opening between two massive limestone rocks, which stand like giant sentinels at the entrance of the vale, or as guards of honour to the portal of Nature's lovely retreats. Here, through the gate of the lodge to the left, is the entrance to WILLERSLEY PARK, along what is called "Chapel Walk."

CROMFORD CHURCH is distant about a mile from Matlock-Bath, and stands in the picturesque grounds of Willersley Castle ; the road to which is a most interesting character, and abounds in scenes of majesty and beauty. The approach to this rural house of prayer is particularly romantic and beautiful ; on the right rises a lofty chain of towering rocks, and on the opposite side of the river, which here adds a new loveliness to the landscape, the view is bounded by a succession of undulating hills, clothed with verdure and foliage. At the extremity of this delightful path, near to a bridge which overarches the stream, the church rears its humble tower, as if directing the thought of man to Him from whom all blessings flow. It is a small but neat building of hewn stone, without much pretension to architectural beauty. Its erection was commenced by the direction of Sir Richard Arkwright, and after his decease was completed by his son, R. Arkwright, Esq. Though it was originally intended only as a mausoleum and church for the Arkwright family, that design has been widely departed from, and it is now available for divine worship to the inhabitants of the district. It was opened on June 4th, 1797, when the Reverend R. Ward, M.A., its first Incumbent, officiated. Its original size was 70 feet long and 45 feet broad. It has lately been enlarged and improved. On the south side of the Communion table is a beautiful monument by Chantry, to the memory of Mrs. Arkwright and her three infant children.

An ancient chapel once stood near this site, at the south end of Cromford Bridge. The building, which has been converted into a dwelling house, was taken down, with the exception of a gothic arched doorway, by Mr. Arkwright's direction, in 1796. This chapel was in existence in 1540 as appears by the will of Richard Wigley, of Middleton who left to it a small legacy.

On ascending the hill to WILLERSLEY CASTLE, a succession of charming and impressive views breaks upon us at every turn ; till on reaching the towering summit of a projecting rock, designated Wild Car Tor, a glorious panorama of beauty and magnificence exhibits, as in one vast picture, the beauties and wonders of this romantic spot. Such a scene as

"Speaks to man in one eternal hymn,
Unfading beauty and unyielding power."

The mansion is more remarkable for elegance and simplicity within, and for just proportion and symmetry in its external appearance, than for any pretensions of architectural effect — simplex munditiis. It contains numerous portraits and other paintings by Wright of Derby and Barber, particularly a view of Ullswater Lake by the former, which cost Sir Richard Arkwright about £3000. The architect was Mr. W. Thomas of London. After the edifice was completed, but before it was inhabited, it was set on fire by the heat of a stove, some timber having been incautiously inserted too near a flue, and all that was combustible in it was consumed. The accident happened on the 8th of August, 1791. The Park and Castle are open to visitors at certain times, of which information may be obtained at "The Library," Messrs. Bemrose & Sons, on Matlock Parade.

The Cotton Mill built at Cromford, in the immediate vicinity of Willersley, is suggestive, as the author of "Peak Scenery" remarks, of possessions obtained by mechanical skill and commercial enterprise, and is an instance of the fact that honourable industry is its own reward. Sir Richard Arkwright, the founder of the fortunes of his family, was born in humble life in Preston, in 1732. In 1767, he was settled in Warrington, where he became acquainted with John Kay, a clockmaker, who advised him to improve the cotton engine. This he did, and connected himself in his new enterprise with Smalley, of Preston, and removed to Nottingham, where he obtained funds, and there built his first great Cotton Mill, which was worked by horses. Riots drove him thence ; and he established at different times, mills in Lancashire, Derbyshire, and at New Lanark, in Scotland. The first Sir Robert Peel employed his invetions, and soon after 1767, brought them into prosperous action. Steam-power was applied ; and in 1771 Mr. Arkwright erected works at Cromford : twenty years afterwards he died rich. In 1786, he served the office of High Sheriff for Derbyshire, and received the honour of Knighthood on presenting a loyal address from the county to King George the Third. He died, aged sixty, at Cromford, August 3rd, 1792.

CROMFORD is an old town, with a good market-place and inn, the Greyhound. The Cotton Mills find employment for the working classes, and an air of comfort pervades the place. The High Peak Railway, which was constructed at a cost of £200,000, has a station there ; and about half-a-mile from the market place, in a very pleasant spot, is the station of the Midland Railway Company, whence many delightful walks may be taken, and public conveyances run to the ancient market-town of Wirksworth, which is distant about two miles-and-a-half ; from Matlock Bath three miles ; and from Derby (by road), thirteen miles.

From Cromford there is a charming walk or drive through what is fancifully called the VIA GELLIA--no Roman road, but so called because it runs through the estates of the Gell family. In early spring-time, the sides of this road abound with lilies of the valley, and other wild flowers of luxuriant growth ; and throughout the year the beautiful foliage of the trees which clothe the acclivities and adorn the crags, contributes to form a succession of natural pictures, which artists and poets have emulated each other in delineating.

A short and pleasant ramble leads to BONSALL, a remarkably picturesque village, with a fine old church which has latterly been restored and beautified, occupying a commanding position on a shelving rock — like the house of a Swiss poet, which "looks out on a domain a monarch might be proud of." Bonsall also has its own ancient Market Cross, its primitive public-house, and in all those other characteristics which mark these quiet settlements of the miners of the olden time.

[There follows an engraving of Cromford Bridge, but I do not have this image. A.A.]


*Transcribed from
'Bemroses' Guide to Matlock, Bakewell, Chatsworth, Haddon Hall, &c' by John Hicklin, Third Edition, pub Bemrose and Sons, London (1869).
OCRed by Ann Andrews, 2025.

Related pages elsewhere on this website:


Arkwright & his cotton mill



Cromford: St. Mary's Church




Willersley, before 1790



Bonsall Cross
(1 of 2 pages)


Pig of Lead,
Via Gellia