On this page:
- The Cumberland Cavern - Underground Scenery - The Harpsichord
- A Rugged Road - Snow Fossil - The Roman Hall - Chaos - The
Queen's Palace - Organic Remains - A Mischievous Propensity
- The Sailor's Hall - Stalactite Encrustations - Return to
Daylight - A Charming View - The Devonshire Cavern - |
Still keeping the elevated ground, a path that leads through the
thickly planted scrub conducts us to the Cumberland Cavern, situated
on the upper slope of Masson. This cavern has been long, and is
still occasionally, worked as a lead mine.
To those who take an interest in such exhibitions, the Cumberland
Cavern will convey a good idea of the underground scenery ; it
contains more natural excavations, and with the exception of the
Rutland, its ramifications extend over a larger area that those
of any other caverns at Matlock. In a geological point of view,
it is also interesting, exhibiting so many interruptions and dislocations
of the strata, with a numerous variety of spar and stalactitic
encrustations.
There is nothing about the entrance of all indicative of the wonders
displayed within - a small opening in the face of the rock being
the only evidence of its existence. The guide unlocked the little
door, and we walked in a few yards, whilst he got his light in
readiness. The first part of the journey is made along a gallery
or level, which has been blasted out of the rock by the miners
in their search for ore ; whilst passing through this, the attention
is directed to the first and second class measures which separate
the lime-stone beds. In this level a dubious twilight prevails,
which gradually deepens into gloom as we advance ; near the further end
a flight of rugged and uneven steps conducts to the lower recesses
of the mine, and as we descend these, a long narrow tunnel-like
passage is pointed out that diverges in the direction of the river,
and which is believed to have been an old working. Still descending,
we wind between rugged walls of grey rock, dotted over with stalactitic
formations, and dripping with moisture, which seems to ooze through
the sides, whilst from the roof the water drops in constant plashes,
forming small saucer-like depressions in the floor. On reaching
the lowest step the roof slopes down, and we have to proceed for
some distance in a stooping posture, to avoid being caught against
the sharp and jagged projections overhead. By and by, we come to
a huge unbroken block of lime-stone bearing the name of the Harpsichord,
from its supposed resemblance to that instrument, and which appears
to have fallen from the superincumbent mass. Passing this the path
becomes more toilsome and difficult, leading over a surface broken
and uneven and strewn with stones and fragments of rock, and winding
down chasms and long narrow passages, that look more gloomy from
the absence of ornament, then through rude cavernous openings hung
with stalactites, and abounding with delicate encrustations of
calcareous spar. In some places vast rents reveal themselves in
the roof, caused by the cooling of the great limestone bubble in
a primeval age ; the rocks yawn, and multitudes of detatched blocks
lie scattered about in horrible confusion ; and the further we
penetrate, the wilder becomes the scene.
We had some difficulty in keeping pace with the guide, who tripped
lightly on before us, striding over the rocky fragments with the
utmost confidence, as if darkness and gloom were familiar to him.
We now appear to be within the very heart of the mountain, and
from this point the path begins to ascend, short slopes alternating
with rude steps that have been formed out of the rock, and as we
wend our way through the mighty fissures and undulating passages,
we meet with several varieties of spar and stalactite, among the
most remarkable of which is that beautiful substance denominated
snow fossil ; fluate of lime also occurs in abundance, generally
crystallized in cubes, and possessing great beauty and diversity
of colour.
Further on we come to a vast natural vestibule or gallery, running
in a north-westerly direction, 300 feet in length, the roof extending
the entire distance in one flat horizontal surface. At the further
extremity of this gallery is the Great or Roman Hall, an immense
opening which has remained through countless ages untouched by
the hand of man ; here the scene that presents itself is of the
wildest character, immense masses of rock meet the eye, some standing
singly and others grouped together or piled upon each other in
the most picturesque and fanciful shapes, as if they had fallen
from the roof by some violent convulsion of the earth, their huge
shadowy forms looming through the deep gloom like spectral giants.
From this point we have a good retrospective view of the gallery
through which we have just passed - the guide having placed a few
lighted candles at intervals upon the sides, the entire length
is revealed, and we are enabled fully to comprehend the magnitude
and regularity of form of this great work of nature. In this cavern
a stratum of clay intervenes between the upper lime and the dunstone
or magnesian beds.
From the Roman Hall we descend by a flight of steps, when the
scene becomes even more frightful and chaotic ; the strata is everywhere
riven and dislocated, and tossed up into every form of superposition;
immense fragments which have fallen from above bestrew the ground,
and huge beetling crags just out overhead, apparently so insecure
as to threaten to crush you beneath the weight of misshapen forms.
In one place we noticed an immense block of solid limestone, said
to be forty tons in weight, which has become detached, and is so
exactly poised, that it seems to rest only on two points of the
adjoining rock.
After a while the eye becomes more familiarised with the gloom,
and objects that at first appeared only in shadowy indistinctness,
become to assume more clearly defined forms. Plodding on through
the mazy intricacies, now scrambling and picking our way over the
slippery and unsteady fragments, and now stopping to examine the
curious spars and veins of ore, we come to a still lower cavity
dignified by the name of the Queen's Palace ; this, like the others,
contains of Nature ; here the roof suddenly
descends, seeming to bar up all further advance, and for narrow
openings until we come to another subterranean chamber, the top
of which, like the ceiling of a house, is supported by perpendicular
walls of solid rock, and presents shells, entrochi, coralliods,
and other organic remains. This would appear to have been a place
of special interest to a certain class of visitors, who have gratified
their mischievous propensity by scratching their names and initials
on almost every accessible spot, conveying to posterity the interesting
information that Brown, Jones, and Robinson have, on the dates
recorded, explored these subterranean recesses.
Passing beneath a natural archway, regularly formed and encrusted
with spar and stalactitic formations, we come to another cavern,
distinguished by the name of the Sailor's Hall ; the roof of this
apartment is less elevated than some of the others, and is covered
with letters and hieroglyphics, visitors who have not been sufficiently
industrious to carve their names and initials having satisfied
themselves with tracing them in smoke on the top by the aid of
their candles. Crossing this chamber, we ascend by a narrow passage
that leads through two recesses, from the further one which branches
off a tunnel-like opening that extends for a considerable distance,
and is terminated by a deep pool of water.
Having completed the exploration of the natural caverns, we proceed
along the old workings of the mine until we reach the shaft employed
in drawing up the lead ore to the surface. Here again the water
trickles down, and the walls are slimy with the constant drip ;
whilst we linger to admire the delicate stalactite incrustations
that are continually accumulating on the walls, the guide holds
his candle to shew us the effect of the reflected light upon their
polished surfaces, and as we stand in the gloom, the picturesque
groups gleam and sparkle with the most brilliant effect.
Near to this shaft the attention is directed to two veins of the
lead ore which further on becomes united ; associated with the
ore is found the sulphate of barites, denominated by miner's "cawke", a substance which, under the
name of Dutch lead, is used in the adulteration of paint.
We are now more than four hundred yards from the entrance, and
three hundred feet below the surface of the mountain. From this
part we descend and proceed by a long narrow passage formed between
continually dripping of the water through the fissures of the limestone
overhead ; some are but mere nipples an inch or two in length,
others depend in long spiral icicles from the roof, or hang in
festoons from the ledges of the rock ; in some places the encrustation
spreads over the entire surface, and as the crystallizations accumulate
they assume various uncouth shapes and forms, over which the moisture
trickles in tiny streams as it falls to the ground with ceaseless
patter, and as the dim candlelight flickers upon the great stony
fragments, they glitter and sparkle with a brilliant gem-like lustre.
And so, on we go ascending and descending through natural openings
and passages that have been widened and levelled, now on the smooth
gravel, now on the naked limestone, now scrambling over great stony
fragments, and now stooping as the rocks seem to close in upon
us, until we again reach the point from which we started.
Not the least attractive feature in connection with the Cumberland
Cavern is the magnificent prospect which bursts upon the view on
regaining the entrance ; from this point the eye takes in nearly
the whole of the picturesque scenery along the dale with the hills
adjacent ; the High Tor, Masson, and the winding river, and the
vast limestone crags opposite, backed by the lofty hills of Riber,
with Scarthin Rock, Crich Cliff, and Stonnis in the further distance
- the view embraces every feature of landscape scenery, hill and
dale, wood and village, rock and river, with the minor accessories
of cultivated fields, pleasant mansions, and smiling cottages.
When we came forth into the open air after a sojourn of more than
an hour in the bowels of the mountain, the sun, which had long
passed the meridian, shed a rich but softened radiance over the
scene, illuminating the rock and hills, lighting up the vales,
and dancing and playing upon the rippling waters with marvellously
beautiful effect.
There is yet another of those natural openings on the side of
Masson - the Devonshire Cavern - smaller than those we have already
described, but possessing much to engage the attention of those
who are interested in these curious formations. The interior presents
the appearance of a wide and expanding opening fashioned in the
inner recesses of the earth, and still exhibiting the same rough
and chaotic state that Nature left it in. Vast piles of rock of
every conceivable shape and size lie strewn about, some apparently
so slightly connected that you wonder how they have so long retained
their position, and as the feeble light of your candle falls upon
the huge shadowy forms the imagination becomes excited, and you
liken them to things the most unearthly. You hear the trickling
and see the flickering of the water as it oozes through the limestone,
falling with sullen and monotonous patter as it has fallen for
unnumbered centuries. The roof of the cavern has the appearance
of an immense layer of solid rock, extending for a distance of
well nigh 200 feet, and supported on either side by perpendicular
walls of limestone ; the surface is entirely free from inequalities,
and slopes rapidly - the angle of dip being about 45° -
and as you gaze upon it you realise something of the mighty force
by which only these mountains could have been upheaved.
Near the south end of Masson the road separates, one path leading
through the upper wood to the picturesque village of Bonsall, the
other continuing for some distance along the side of the hill,
and then descending to the bottom of the dale.
Following the lower way we came upon the high road at a point
close to the toll-gate, immediately opposite the weir, from which
a few minutes walking brought us to our quarters. Exercise and
mountain air are excellent sharpeners of the appetite, and we sat
down to our evening repast with all the relish and enjoyment of
Sancho Panza at Camacho's wedding.
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