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[A] A SHORT mile from Lea is Lea Hurst,
a spot scarcely surpassed for the natural beauty surrounding
it, and with which the name of Florence Nightingale will
be associated as long as England has a history; for though
her birth-place was Florence, her home during [a] great
part of her life has been here, and pilgrims from many
a clime will visit it in after ages for her sake. It is
at a point, too, so very easy of access from every quarter,
by roads passing through such interesting scenery, as to
afford a manifold attraction to the tourist and the devotee.
Any one coming up from the North of England by the Midland
Railway may alight at Wingfield-station, see Wingfield
Manor-ruins, get the view from Crich-cliff by the way,
and reach Lea Hurst in a walk of not more than four and
a half miles by a very good road. From Derby it may be
gained easily by a short ascent from the Whatstandwell-station
; from Matlock by a converse ride via the same station
; or a four miles' journey by the road, via Cromford, Lea
Wood, and Nether Holloway. Or the ramble from Matlock Bridge
or Bank, by way of Riber and Dethick, may be extended to
it with ease, if you are so inclined. For myself, I love
to go up from Whatstandwell, either by Crich Carr or by
that romantic and
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lonely pass through the Duke of Devonshire's stupendous stone-quarries,
to a point between Cliff House and the Lead-mines, taking care
to avoid falling into any of the disused shafts by the way ; then
walk on by Wakebridge, taking a foot-path there is along the fields
and the hill-top towards Over Holloway; and thence look down over
the Lea Shaws, on all that God and Nature and Art have done to
gladden the eye with a landscape that rivets the soul, and causes
the gazer only one regret - that all the world cannot come and
see it with him.
It is but a few weeks since (in April, 1861,) I was on this walk,
with Messrs. Fowler and Wells, the celebrated American phrenologists.
Mr. Luke Alsop was our guide, and made every part of the view more
interesting by associating with it some touch of history or personal
incident, or of geology and mineralogy. That farm-house we had
just passed at Wake-bridge was on the site of an ancient residence
of a distinguished family ; beyond it were small old groove-hillocks,
not unlike petrified flocks of sheep on the bleak hill-sides ;
the more imposing machinery of modern mining was near, by the side
of a little mountain-brook ; and unique and strange seemed all
that eastward scene, culminating at Crich-stand which stood alone
in the cloudless sky. But turning from this to the west, what a
magnificent contrast spread itself before us ! Deep beneath went
the wooded scaur, crossed mid-way by the white line of the turnpike-road,
and finishing only where the canal and the river, spanned by picturesque
bridges, with the railway and the old road, run side by side for
several miles, - Shining Cliff and Alderwasley Hall beyond - the
latter at that time awakening some touching thoughts from the fact
that the chief of the house was lying dead within. Captain Goodwin's
pleasant domain of Wigwell lay farther off to the west - Wirksworth
Moor, and the hills above Cromford and Matlock, embosoming Willersley
Castle, more westerly still. Harmoniously were blended masses of
wood, blue water-gleams, and spots of pasture
of lively green. Holloway hamlet, with its sweet old homes, its
increase of new, and its two little chapels, was resting and smiling
in the sabbath-sunshine, to the right. The flashing waterfall,
far down the valley, sent up its voice with the river's to invite
our notice of it and the cupola by its side ; while the lark sent
down its music from on high to win our glance from earth to heaven,
if so be one might find such a trembling little speck in space
as that which could thus fill it so largely with song. The anemone,
primrose, and violet, nestled among the moist verdure almost close
at our feet ; and Nature itself seemed to rejoice that it could
yield such joy to the human heart. "But what" said our
American friends, "is that lovely place - that gem of the
whole landscape, almost directly beneath us - that many gabled
mansion with its terraces and green lawns, harmonising with, yet
unlike everything else we can see ?" "That" answered
I, "is Lea Hurst, the Derbyshire home of Florence Nightingale
;" - and I shall not soon forget the emotion with which they
continued to regard it, taking away leaves and flowers, and even
bits of stone, to treasure across the wide Atlantic as memorials
of the time and scene.
It is not my intention to give a very minute description of the
house of Lea Hurst, the seat of Mr. W. E. Nightingale, it has been
done by so many writers, but chiefly by that ardent antiquary and
litterateur, Mr. Llewellynn Jewitt, who in his "Stroll
to Lea Hurst," and by allusions in other works, has noted
pretty nearly every particular. He says "The Hall is erected
in the Elizabethan style, is most enchantingly situated on an expansive
sloping lawn on the outer edge of an extensive park, and is surrounded
and overhung with luxuriant trees. It is built in the form of a
cross, with gables at its extremities and on its sides, surmounted
with hip-knobs, with ball-terminations. The windows, which open
beneath the many gables, are square-headed, with dripstones and
stone mullions, and the general contour of the building is much heightened
by the strongly-built clustered chimney stacks which rise from
the roofs. At the extremities of the building, large bay windows
stand out into the grounds, and are terminated with balustrades
and battlements. The Hall, with its out-offices, gardens and shrubberies,
is enclosed from the general park by a low fence, and is approached
by a gateway, whose massive posts are terminated by globes of stone."
Imagine such a building in such a spot, with a landscape as varied
as landscape well could be - Holloway, a populous but very clean
and peaceful hamlet, near - farms and cottages scattered broad-cast,
so that seclusion without solitude seems everywhere a characteristic
feature - and you have one of the scenes amid which Florence Nightingale
first began to develop those feelings that sought afterwards a
more active field, and made her name a cherished word in almost
every land. I well remember her in days gone by, visiting the cottages
of the poor whenever illness was there, and doing all she could
to soothe and bless the sufferers. There is one cottage by the
road-side, and overlooking a good part of the Hurst and the scenery
beyond, where, long before she became known to the world, a poor
old relative of mine, a chronic invalid, delighted in nothing so
much as talking of the way she visited and made inquiries about
her without fuss or unwelcome freedom, and when any of the poor
neighbours got hurt in the quarries or mines, she was always one
of the first to offer them genuine help and solace. People wise
in their generation, instead of imitating her, thought her rather
eccentric ; but the wiser people of generations to come will pass
a different verdict, and think nursing an honourable calling for
her sake - especially after the fame she at length gained for the
part she took in the Crimean war; since good nursing was getting
sadly out of fashion in many quarters, until she arose and gave
it new prestige by her heroic example.
Holloway (commonly contracted into Howy) is a place that the wayfarer,
of whatever rank, might long to loiter if not to
live in, a great portion of his days ; it is so sunnily situated,
so clean and quiet, and one part of it is so well supplied with
pure water by an upland rill. When first I knew it the inhabitants
were but few ; but Mr. Sims has lately made such a great addition
to the number of habitations for working people, and it is so convenient
to Lea-mills as well as to the quarries and mines, that there is
no wonder it should be growing into a considerable village. There
was something very agreeable to me, in my boyhood, in lingering
among its simple denizens and listening to their traditions and
passing experiences none of which, however, were more interesting
to a psychologist than what I am now about to relate, as happening
to a person still living there in Philip Spencer's cottage.
Philip and his first wife, Martha, who was a cousin of mine, having
no children of their own, adopted the little daughter of a young
woman who went to live at Derby. The child called them father and
mother as soon as she could speak, not remembering her own parents
- not even her mother. While yet very young, she one day began
to cry out that there was a young woman looking at her, and wanting
to come to her ; and according to her description of the person
it must have been her mother. As no one else saw the apparition,
and the child continued for more than half an hour to be very excited,
Philip took her out of the house to that of a neighbour ; but the
apparition kept them company, talking by the way. They then went
to another house, where it accompanied them still, and seemed as
though it wanted to embrace the child ; but at last vanished
in the direction of Derby - as the little girl, now a young
woman, describes it - in a flash of fire. Derby is about
fourteen miles distant from Holloway, and as in that day there
was neither railway nor telegraph, communication between them was
much slower than at present. As soon, however, as it was possible
for intelligence to come, the news arrived that the poor child's
mother had been burnt to death ; that it happened about
the time when it saw her apparition; and, in
short, that she was sorrowing and crying to be taken to the child
during the whole of the time between being burnt and her expiration.
This is no "idle ghost story," but a simple matter of
fact, to which not only Philip, but all his old neighbours can
testify ; and the young woman has not only related it more than
once to me, but she told it in the same artless and earnest manner
to my friend, the late Dr. Samuel Brown, of Edinburgh, who once
called at the cottage with me, - repeating it still more clearly
to Messrs. Fowler and Wells on our recent visit. Those people who
ridicule all psychical phenomena they may not themselves have seen,
will possibly be disposed to explain away this fact; but all we
need say to such is what Shakspere [sic] said long ago - "There
are more things between heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamt
of in your philosophy." Nor could I well quit Holloway on
this occasion without recording the story.
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