Beyond this, the road rises to Saxton's New Bath, which is a very
commodious inn and hotel, with excellent accommodations; opposite
to it is a level green, also the grand eastern rampart of the dale,
the appearance of which is here very impressive. The walk round this
green presents a variety of uncommon fine scenery. Up the dale is
seen the Heights of Abraham, towering above its neighbours ; the continuous
range of the eastern cliffs, curiously netted with ivy, and cloathed
with magnificent woods, which beautifully relieve the crouching cottages
on the margin of the green. The smart lodging houses enliven the scene
; their neatness and clean appearance strongly recommend them, whilst
their situation, in the midst of such magic beauties, renders a sojournment
here one of the most delightful enjoyments
for rational being's; where, retired in this sequestered spot from
the artifice of a bustling world, the contemplative mind wanders from
scene to scene, and is finally led on, admiring nature " up to
nature's God,"
" Oh! knew he but his happiness, of men
The happiest he, who far retired from public rage,
Deep in the vale, with a choice few retired,
Drinks the pure pleasures of the rural life."
In the New Bath Garden is seen a very fine spreading lime tree, whose
extensive branches are supported by props, that give to it an appearance
similar to the banyan-tree of the East Indies ; there is a seat round
the bole, where, in warm weather, & most grateful shade may be
enjoyed. In the hill above the New Bath is the Cumberland Cavern.
It presents many curious fossils, and is well worth seeing.
Pursuing the road, we have now and then a glimpse of the river, murmuring
below, Or between the trees a transitory peep at a fine mass of grey
rock. On the western side, gently rising are fine fields of grass,
and then the Old Bath appears. This is an extensive range of building,
and is kept by Mr. Cumming, where every accommodation will be found.
Here are also assembly and billiard rooms for the amusement of the
company. This is the primitive bath, and may be regarded as the nucleus,
around which grew the present extended erections of Matlock Bath.
The first warm spring was discovered about the year 1698, when a bath
and a few small rooms were built. At that period there was no carriage
road to the place, and but an indifferent one for a horse; however,
the valetudinary repaired thither, was benefited, and spread the fame
of its tepid waters ; the buildings were then enlarged, and a carriage
road made from this spot to Cromford; the horse-way to Matlock Bridge
was also repaired. The roads and the accommodations being both improved,
and the celebrity of the waters far spread, the demand for accommodations
still increased. Another spring being discovered about a quarter of
a mile to the south, a new bath and lodging house sprang up, that
which is now denominatted the New Bath, as before-noticed;
after this a third spring was discovered about a quarter of a mile
to the north of the old one, upon which grew another bath and lodging
house, called the Hotel Bath. Although the fame of this place was
primarily derived from the medicinal Virtues of the waters, yet numbers
are now attracted for the purpose of contemplating the scenery, which
is perhaps equal in romantic beauty to any thing of the kind that
is met with in Wales.
The Old Bath, retiring from the road, has a spacious carriage drive,
which partly encompasses the garden in its front, and is a continued
terrace walk to the Temple, a sweetly situated lodging
house, kept by Mrs. Evans. The prospect up the dale is enlivened by
a number of very neat houses, built with tuffa, a kind of stone formed
by the water, which deposits in its passage a part of the calcarious
particles it held in solution, so that the Western bank of the river,
and where the road, turns from a little below the New Bath to the
foot of Masson, is an entire bed of this substance. It is well known
that water in a warm state will hold more saline matter in solution
than when cold, so that in cooling it deposits a part, in a crystallized
form: so it is with these warm springs : they carry so much calcarious
matter, that cooling as they flow exposed to the air, a part becomes
deposited, which composes tuffa: therefore the petrifying weIls (as
they are called here) only form an incrustation upon the substances
that are put into them. " Encrusting wells," would
be their true designation. Many houses here are perched up aloft in
such aerial situations, where one would imagine that birds only could
build their habitations. The most striking of them is Mr. Gilbert's
residence, situated on the Heights of Abraham : below, a handsome
range of building skirts the road. This we may call the metropolis
of the Dale, being the most populous and busy part of it. Masson here
sweeping into a noble amphitheatre, forms a grand western barrier,
and kindly protects the
metropolitans from inclement storms; it also receives the solar rays
with such effect, as render it a warm and most salubrious region.
The High Tor is also seen here, rearing its grey head above the lower
part of Masson : and although its grandeur is eclipsed by the magnitude
of the latter, yet; it strongly preserves the character of an extraordinary
mass of rocks.
In the Upper-wood at the back of the Old Bath, are the Dungeon Tors,
a very singular assemblage of rocks, that will amply repay the labour
of mounting a steep and intricate path to them. The way turns by the
northern end of the Old Bath, where it ascends by some cottages that
derive a very romantic air from their situation within the wood ;
the path is strewed with glistening spar, and winds up the steep amongst
innumerable trees and fragments of rocks. We pass a mine in an angle
of the rocks, and a few more turns bring us to the Dungeon Tors; but
we are disgusted with a wall and gate that checks the forcible effect
of the first view. Here is also the Fluor Cavern, so called from its
being studded with that mineral, in considerable quantity: this cavern
is well worth the attention of the curious. The guide now conducts
the visitor through the gate where these extraordinary detached crags
commence; they consist of immense fragments that have, by some strange
convulsion, been forced from the parent rock,* leaving a very narrow
passage between them. Painting only can convey any adequate idea of
these rugged rocks, which are thrown into the wildest disorder; and
it is very remarkable that so many of them should remain in an upright
position. The dark ivy with which they are netted, the sombre mosses
with which they are patched, and the deep gloom which the overhanging
trees throws over them, render the appellation of Dungeon Tors very
expressive; modern refinement, however, denominates them the Romantic
rocks, which is a very indeterminate name for them; the term being
too general : therefore let them for the future retain their ancient
descriptive appellation of Dungeon Tors.
[footnote at the bottom of page 32]
*An author advances this curious hypothesis. " Several large
fragments have separated, apparently at different periods; as they
are found at different distances." But as my optics could not
discover any dates upon these fragments, I cannot form any conclusion
to favour such an idea.
A late guide to these rocks hearing parties call them romantic
rocks, supposed it a more refined appellation, and therefore adopted
it.
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