Below the Old Bath, and in a direction opposite to it, the river may
be crossed by a boat to the Lovers' Walks, a most charming
retreat, highly deserving to be distinguished by such art appellation,
There is also a walk on this side
[footnote at the bottom of page 32 is on previous
page]
the river, among some trees, that affords some pretty close scenes,
a lofty craggy rock being occasionally seen through the trees. Near
the place of landing, on the other side the water, is an alcove and
a spar shop. A walk of considerable extent winds along the margin
of the river, which is sometimes so completely embowered with trees,
as scarcely to admit a glimpse of the stream: at others, a fine promontory
of grey rock is seen through the opening branches, and the path is
gradually lost in the wood. A small cascade is also seen falling into
the dark river, which is a pleasing object; and the old alcove, a
Gothick arch of rude stones, patched with moss, and over-grown with
weeds, is become naturalised to the scene. This walk is terminated
up the river by an abrupt rock, down which hang the pendulous branches
of trees, that clothe the upper part of it, waving with the gentlest
breezes that sweep the dale. The High Tor is here seen profile-ways,
and harmonizes well with the rest of the scenery.
The other extremity of this walk is bounded by a fence wall, which
separates it from Mr. Arkwright's private walks. Near, is a small
cavern, festooned with ivy, and overhung with trees; it is a romantic
little scrap. From this walk others are seen branching off, that wind
up the steep acclivity, among innumerable trees, and Iead under impending
crags of grey limestone curiously veined with chert, and decorated
with creeping
ivy, and large-trees nodding on their summits: the path still winds,
until we finally reach the top of the cliffs, where a powerful contrast
is suddenly produced, by the appearance of fine fields of grass that
gently slope from the very edge of the precipice. The High Tor now
appears a prominent object in the scene, having a very different appearance
to any object in the valley. The whole line of the back part of the
eminence is seen declining from the edge of the rocks, the ground
is strewed over with the refuse of mines, and its aspect altogether
is extremely rugged. The road, the river, and the woods, with a stretch
of distance, form a fine view. Keeping along the edge of the precipice,
which is skirted with large trees, several fine peeps down into the
valley are obtained, from different bold promontories; another path
will also be found, by which the steep may be descended by a different
rout. The day being uncommonly fine, many parties were attracted to
this place by the refreshing coolness of these retired shades, which
gave a pleasing animation to the scene.
" Welcome ! ye shades, ye bowery thickets ; hail !
Ye lofty pines, ye venerable oaks !
Ye ashes, wild, resounding o'er the steep t
Delicious is your shelter to the soul."
Some take a boat, to view the fine scenery from the river, where some
happy combinations of wood, rock and water occur: others leisurely
wander on the margin of the river: whilst some, toiling up the paths
of the steep acclivity, are met by others swiftly descending. The
females seem to skip along the trees like sylphs, and now are lost
in the thickets, there at a turn they suddenly emerge again, their
white drapery waving in the wind as they flit along, give an enchanted
air to this sylvan retreat. Here imagination might still linger with
delight, did not the powerful attraction of other beauties claim some
attention; and powerful as those attractions are, yet we cannot quit
this most enchanting place without reluctance. Following the road
a little way we come to a handsome range of buildings, consisting
of lodging houses, a good travellers' inn, and the Museum, of which
Mr. Mawe, the mineralogist, is the proprietor. It consists of fluor
spar, and marble ornaments, that are peculiar to Derbyshire: also
minerals and shells of every description. It will prove a fine treat
to the curious, and a most agreeable lounge: the room is spacious
and the admission free. The tasteful forms of the vases and candlelabria,
prove that the proprietor has studied the antique; whilst the workmanship
bears the stamp of superiority. The amathystine fluor is the gem of
the county, I may even say the gem of the world, for it is procured
from only one mine, which is situated in a mountain at Castleton.
It has long been much admired
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[Etching opposite page 36 - note the Cascade on the right]
by foreigners, who have eagerly sought it, and in their
writings pronounced it to he the most beautiful production
of the mineral kingdom. Indeed the choice specimens of
it that are here exhibited, verify what they have advanced
in its praise ; and, as it is now become rare, the nobility
of this kingdom begin to appreciate its importance as
a gem; it therefore finds the way into their most splendid
apartments, and their cabinets. It is also selected for
presents to their foreign friends : nor could they select, from
the productions of this country , any thing that is so highly
esteemed by strangers. The various elegant ornaments, &c. of
black marble, display considerable taste and skill in their execution;
it bears a very high polish, and is enriched in a peculiarly embossed
manner with figures, arabesque, and other ornaments. The black
marble is procured from his Grace the Duke of Devonshire's Derbyshire
estate, near Ashford. There are many other articles in this museum
that are very interesting, but to enumerate all or them would too
much extend the size of this publication.
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