It is no doubt satisfactory to our insular pride
to know that we compare favourably in the matter of beautiful scenery
with other countries, though it is somewhat invidious to seek to establish
the excellence of the scenery of one country over that of another;
but it may fairly be conceded that the comparison of the Peak district
with Switzerland is not so far-fetched as such similes generally are.
The Peak is Alpine on a
reduced scale ; it is Switzerland seen through a lessening lens ;
its hills are mountains in miniature; but it is none the less romantic,
except to people whose standard of scenery is that of mere size, and
who measure the beauty of an eminence by its bulk and height above
the level of the sea, and to whom the charm of a river lies in its
total length.
There are four Matlocks-Matlock Village or Town as it is generally
called is an old-world place of gray dwellings and ancient Parish
Church, built centuries before the other Matlocks were dreamed of;
Matlock Bath, Matlock Bank, and Matlock Bridge, all lying within
the radius of a couple of miles. To Matlock Bath belongs the most
scenic beauty; Matlock Bank is on the breast of a hill that overlooks
the rocky valley, and is monopolized by hydropathic establishments,
the largest of which is Smedley's, who introduced the "cold
water cure" into the district ; while the Bridge is the little
market town, with its railway station, down near the river.
Matlock Bath has but a modern history. Defoe, who visited the
place in the eighteenth century, writes of it:
"The Bath would be a much more frequented than it is, if a sad
stony way which leads to it, and no accommodation when you get there
did not hinder." But when good roads were made, and hotels sprung
up, the waters of the Bath were in great request. The " Old Bath
Hotel" became an establishment of repute. Gough describes the
Matlock of his day as being "much frequented by the neighbouring
gentry for health and amusement, without the infection of southern
manners." Here Lord Byron met Mary Chaworth, heiress of Annesley,
and here the episode happened, recorded by Moore, which was destined
to govern the life history of both the bard and the beauty. Byron's
letters abound in illusions to the beauties of Matlock. The original
Old Bath Hotel is not in existence. Near its site is erected a new
building of large proportions, called the Royal Hotel. In the "Visitor's'
Book" of the New Bath Hotel, Mr. Ruskin's name occurs more than
once. This comfortable caravanserai is one of the institutions in
a town or hotels, of which the Temple, Hodgkinsons, the Devonshire,
and the Old English at Matlock Bridge, will be recalled by the readers
of this page. All lovers of trees should see the
as a light skiff shoots past, with a fair Undine giving a dash of
picturesque colour at the helm. It is pleasant to sit in the sylvan
shade in the springtime, when the trees behind are jubilant with
feathered builders, and the jackdaws are calling to each other in
the ivy of the crags, and the leafage is of that luminous, tender,
delicate green which the scorching sun soon dims into a dingier hue.
Pleasanter still, perhaps, is this retreat in the autumn time, with "the deep colour
of the woods and the silence of the birds," when the beech leaves
are burnished like bronze, and the sycamore covered with tints of
red, and the birch splashed with yellow, and ever and anon a dying
leaf falls with an audible sigh of regret at your feet.
Side paths diverge from the main paths of the Lovers Walks, and
climb up the Hag Tors, magnificent pieces of rock scenery, whose
gray limestone turrets are trellised with clinging trees, and wild
flowers, and glossy ivy, and whose rocky recesses are luxuriant
with vegetation. Here and there a retiring bower, at some "coign
of 'vantage," offers a rest and a panoramic prospect, embracing
all that is beautiful between Masson and Harp Edge, and the view
is one of the finest that you can obtain in Matlock. Far away below,
the Derwent glances among the trees, as it glides on to the weir,
beyond which it lends beauty to the green slopes crowned by Willersley
Castle, the mansion of the Arkwrights, first becoming useful at
Cromford, "the
cradle of the cotton manufacture," where are the mills founded
by Sir Richard Arkwright, the Preston barber's apprentice.
Next to the Lovers' Walks, the Heights of Abraham attract lover
of the picturesque. "Why Heights of Abraham?" is the
natural query of the visitor to Matlock who climbs up the wooded
hill which is really a lower slope of Masson. He may perhaps fancy
that the name has some occult collection with the petrifying spring
in the street below, which, going into the primitive ages for
a patron, is advertised as "Jacob's Well." These heights,
however, owe their name to a supposed resemblance they bear to
the Heights of Abraham at Quebec. The whole hill-side is a woodland
mass of varied shape and diversified hue. A church, Swiss-like
cottages, and castellated buildings, break the monotony of the
billowy mass of green. A prospect
tower too much like a chimney for picturesque effect, crowns the
summit. Much has been done, by winding walks, and the provision of
rustic seats at frequent intervals to modify the difficulty of the
ascent; and one is rather surprised when he is informed that the
mountain, after the expenditure of the energy required to reach the
summit, is only a trifle over a thousand feet high. The
exertion, however, is rewarded by the panorama, which
is a feast to the eye accustomed even to the grandeur of the views
from more lofty altitudes. The Prospect tower hangs over an Avernus-like
descent of woodland scenery. Away below is the curve of the Matlock
valley, a deep ravine, on one side of which rises the mountain slopes
of Masson, and on the other, tall, fantastic crags, draped with green,
stretching from Scarthin Nick, past Hag Tors, to the impending precipice
of High Tor, which seems less startling and stupendous when viewed
from this standpoint, as the Riber hill-side, crowned with the towers
of Riber Castle, rises to a greater height immediately behind it.
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