The following biographical account was first published on the web site
of the late Peter Aspey. It is reproduced here in its original format,
as far as possible, with the kind permission of Mrs. Aspey and family.
Personal Details
Here, in case the reader should wonder where I come from or what my background
is, are some further details concerning my upbringing and origins.
It amounts to a sort of mini-autobiography which complements the career
overview [not included here] and gives more substance to who I am.
I was born and brought up in Matlock Bath in Derbyshire. Ann Andrews, also
of Matlock Bath origin, maintains an excellent site with extensive
and detailed historical information about Matlock
and Matlock Bath as well as other places and subjects. Matlock Bath occupies
a steep, picturesque valley on the River Derwent. My family lived initially
towards an upper border of the village on the hillside. Then, when
I was about 5 years old, my parents took over the Heights
of Abraham pleasure grounds from my father's parents, which meant we
then lived even higher up the hill, with a wonderful view of the valley
to the South.
The 30 acres [12 hectare] of mostly thickly wooded grounds included two
show caverns called the Great Rutland Cavern and, higher up the hill, the
Great Masson Cavern. We lived in the castle-like house with three round towers,
easily visible from the valley below (see photo). It was in 1954 that we
first moved there. We had gas lighting and no main water supply. We obtained
rain water from the flat roof and drinking water from the cavern, via a pipe
leading to the cafeteria, although when this was frozen in the winter, we
had to go into the depths of the cavern to fetch the water in buckets. My
father had electricity installed in 1955 and later mains water and sewage
(a large operation!).
My grandparents had taken over the Heights in 1929 from the Sprinthall sisters
Emily and Annie who were two of the nine children of Samuel Sprinthall.
The grounds had been developed as pleasure grounds for the public in the
late 18th century. A family connection was initiated around 1860 when a brother-in-law
of Samuel Sprinthall, Robert Chadwick (married to Elizabeth Sprinthall),
bought the grounds and houses. Subsequently (from 1882) Samuel Sprinthall
occupied the upper house ('Upper
Towers') and ran the business, after which, on Samuel's death in 1920,
this passed on to Emily and Annie. The Rutland Cavern had been first opened
in 1815. Before that, it was a lead mine called the Nestus Mine. The name,
The Heights of Abraham, was first used in the late 18th century after an
officer in General Wolfe's army that marched on Quebec in 1765 (fancifully?)
likened the grounds to a location of the same name in Canada. My grandfather
actually married the sixth child of Samuel - the next daughter following
Emily and Annie - so the Heights stayed in the family. The grounds and buildings
remained the property of the Chadwick family until the second world war,
when they were taken over by Matlock Urban Council, presumably meant as an
act of conservation. After that, the business was owned by the family but
the grounds and buildings were leased from the council.
Matlock Bath in 1870
This view, looking north over South Parade, dates from 7 years before
my grandfather was born, not far from the point at which the photo
was taken. The Heights had been opened 8 years earlier.
The white house dead-centre surrounded by trees is where I grew up. Just
to the right of it and slightly lower, but not so clearly visible,
is the tea room. To the right of this is the entrance to the Rutland
cavern. On the skyline higher to the right, the Victoria Prospect Tower can be seen, supplanted by a flag. |
The lead mined in the caverns prior to 1815 was that left over by the Romans
who had mined there between 81 and 138 A.D. The caves had been 'visited'
even earlier though, by the Phoenicians. As one might guess from this mining
activity, the caverns at the Heights are geologically interesting. A large
(non-active) fault runs through them called the Great Rake. This forms in
fact the entrance and initial section of the Masson Cavern; in the Rutland
Cavern, it runs through the rear part, just beyond the part which is visible
for the public. In the vicinity of this fault many minerals can be found,
with incidental occurrences of quite exotic ones. I recall whilst we lived
there that geologists from Manchester University found in the Rutland Cavern
the first recorded occurrence in the U.K. of the mineral Cinnabar (mercuric
sulphide). In addition to the ubiquitous Calcite, Fluorite and of course
Galena (lead sulphide), various copper bearing minerals were in evidence.
The initial 50 metres or so passage way into the Rutland Cavern is not natural
but man-made for the purposes of easy access for the public - when a functioning
mine, access was via shafts sunk in the hillside. The cave has a large chamber
which splits further into two parts. From the main chamber, a passage with
steps (not now accessible for the public, but used to be in days gone by)
runs steeply upwards. We called it the 'Roman Staircase' and as children
we were told by my Uncle Archie that the ghost of a Roman dignitary lurked
there (his name was Constantine). The passage was blocked further up and
I don't know whether it ever led anywhere particular. One of the two parts
leading off the main chamber rose gently upwards, and round a corner was
a further chamber with, in its roof, a large rock projecting down which looked
like a man's face with eye, nose and beard (the old guide who worked there
in the 1950's used to say to the visitors, "a lot of people have asked
me whether we cut the eye -- we never have!"). The other part led to "Jacob's
Wishing Well", into which many people threw coins - I don't suppose
it brought any of them any luck, but it brought us a little as we occasionally
had to relieve the well of excess coinage. Just past the well, in a separate
smaller chamber, was "the
Old Oak Tree" (resembling, as our old
guide said, the Major Oak in Sherwood Forest). [ As
I recollect from later visits, visitors to the Rutland Cavern are treated
nowadays to an audio-visual presentation about the lead mining history but
actually get to see very little of the cave as such - the parts mentioned
above are, for instance, omitted. The visitors are simply led to the main
chamber, are given the 'show' and then are led out again. This seems an unfortunate
omission of the natural phenomena even if the fanciful old names are now
considered trivial and old-fashioned.
]
The Masson Cavern was (is) for a large part more of a long winding underground
passage - all natural (as said above, the first part being formed by a section
of the Great Rake). Nevertheless, it ends up in a large chamber. The quaint
metaphor here was the white cameo in a cavity likened to a profile of Queen
Victoria. From this chamber, a steep stepped passage way led upwards; this
one did lead somewhere - out! It was the back entrance or, in practice, the
exit: visitors, still clutching their candles, or, later, their hurricane
lamps, were led up this stairway to emerge onto the hillside, from where
they walked back down to the entrance. Because of the candles or lamps (the
Rutland Cavern had gas lighting and later electricity) and because of the
long, smaller passage, a visit to the Masson Cavern had a more adventurous
feel to it [nowadays, it too has electric lighting]. There was also more
to be seen off the beaten track. About half way along the cavern there were
small passages connecting with a still active mine where fluorite was mined
(for use as a flux in the steel industry). In this complex of passages a
couple of lakes could also be found, contained in clefts in the rock and
possessing a beautiful blue colour when one shone a torch into the water.
The family connection with the Heights was by chance strengthened when around
1955 Archie Sprinthall returned from the U.S.A. to Matlock Bath. Samuel
Sprinthall was Archie's grandfather - Archie was a son of the first (oldest)
son and child of Samuel, namely, Arthur Sprinthall. Arthur emigrated to the
US at the beginning of the twentieth century (1905) and Archie went with
him, aged 16 - he became fully Americanized! He stayed with us at the Heights
and became an integral part of the family as well as a well-known figure
in Matlock Bath. So myself and my twin brother Geoffrey were, during that
important part of our lives, partly raised by our American Uncle Archie and
we had an early appreciation of American culture.
Looking back, it was an idyllic childhood, yet one regrets that, as children,
the environment wasn't appreciated as much as it might be. Indeed, for us,
the daily journey to school was tedious - especially the evening climb up
the hill. Holidays seemed long, and much time was spent exploring the woods
and the caves as well as searching for fossils or minerals in the limestone
rocks. And of course in the summers there were the thousands of visitors
thronging in our 'back garden'. Our life there, and a family association
of a hundred years, came to an end in 1964. It might have been otherwise
had my elder brother Richard (7 years older) not died in May 1962 at the
age of 21 - he was in line to take over the business and was already formally
a director. As it was, my parents decided to make the break and we moved
to Duffield, about five miles North of Derby. The following year, in April
1965, my twin brother died suddenly. If I believed in divine fate, I suppose
I could see this as some kind of retribution for leaving or at any rate to
serve as emphasis of the break with the past - my other half was no more.
What we called 'pleasure grounds' have become in late twentieth century
parlance, a 'Country Park'. A further reference to the Heights:
- Peak
District Information Website, formerly Cressbrook Multimedia.
(scroll down to the Heights). Apologies. Link now removed as the information is no longer available at this URL.
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